Just Pictures, No Words

These pictures should have been shared on a more broader basis sooner. I'm sorry it has taken me so long. I will be uploading more and writing more stories in the coming weeks.

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Odd Culinary Indulgences

In spirit of Thanksgiving, I thought I would mention some of the bizarre foods I've tried since being here and a few of the foods I avoided. The rating system accompanying my descriptions are arbitrary.More...
1) Grasshopper: Fried with red chili powder and served whole, the first step is to twist off the head and pull out the spinal cord. This part, I'm told, "tastes like shit." Fortunately, shit is still something I haven't tried.

What It Tastes Like: An overcooked french fry flavored with chicken broth. Before trying, I refused profusely. My friend and coworker insisted I try, claiming it tasted like chicken.

"P'Boom, if I wanted to eat something that tastes like chicken, I can eat chicken!"

Why I Ate It: I became immersed in a 7 cup pool of vodka tonics and remembered that my mom told me to try everything once.

Rating: 3

2) Dragon Fruit: Have you ever seen this? Google it. It looks like something out of a Sci-Fi movie. It is oval and the outer part is pink with green leaf like things growing off of it. The meat of the fruit has the feeling of kiwi and is white with black seeds throughout.

How It Tastes: It is very starchy and mildly sweet. I was expecting something puckering, but received a pleasantly mellow experience. It is high in fiber, which is good for my butt. You can never be too kind to your butt.

Why I Ate It: Because it was new fruit and not meat. All the weird things tend to be meat or bugs.

Rating: MMM

3) Pig's Liver, Blood, and Heart: Thai cuisine throws hardly anything away. Eating internal organs is very common. The liver excluded, these items are typically served with noodles in a delicious beef or chicken based broth. In my opinion, that is where the deliciousness stops.

What They Taste Like:

Liver: I've never tried it because eating the organ responsible for removing toxins from the body just seems odd. Would you eat animal rectum? No, I didn't think so.

It has the consistency of creamy sand and tastes like meatloaf that soaked in rancid orange juice.

Rating: 2

Blood: It is prepared and looks very much like tofu. It is a gleaming burgundy cube, gelatinously dancing to the sway of the server's saunter. The taste is mild and almost bland, but my mind ran a muck when I tried it, pulling up images of slaughter and the hit Showtime series Dexter.

Rating: AB-

Heart: Actually, this was surprisingly tasty. Then I bit into an artery and gagged. Tasty yes, but texture plays a huge part in food for me. I can't handle chewy things that don't change in composition after chewing them.

Rating: <3

Why I tried them: The liver was peer pressure. I was at dinner with a large group of coworkers and they found out that I have never had liver. Now I know why many are not fans. The blood was absolute curiosity. I might try it again if I've had a few. The heart was in a meal bought for me and I wanted to show that I will be appreciative and try it.

Fish Stomach: Yes, fish stomach. It was served in a thick, non-cream based soup with mushrooms and unidentifiable greens. If you didn't know, you might assume that it was just a vegetable. It is translucent and doesn't look like what it is.

What It Tastes Like: The soup itself was delicious, but the stomach tasted like netting. That was the first word that came to mind when I tried it. The flavor of the savory soup overpowered the stomach and the tongue, and all I got was texture.

Why I Ate It: I was at a wedding for a coworker and again succumbed to peer pressure. People were really jazzed to try it, and so I followed suit.

Rating: meh

Fried Duck's Bill:
There's a point when repulsion is dominated by curiosity. For me, this was that point. How the hell do you eat a duck's bill? Why? It's all bone! Well, I gave it a whirl and found it to be alright, but not worth the effort of massive masticating.

What It Tastes Like: Because it is composed of several small bones, it's like eating sticks covered with deep fried chicken skin. Crunchy doesn't begin to describe the sensation of the jaw crunching and breaking an animals tiny mouth bones. Not worth the effort, really. Again, if I have been drinking, I can see myself indulging in what is put in front of me.

Why I Ate It: P'Boom, my Thai sister, loves getting me to eat new weird things. She was the one responsible for the grasshopper feast.

Rating: daffy

Little Faces Playing to the Heart


Our luxuries are bountiful. So innumerable are our fortunes that they are inevitably taken for granted. Before we leave our beds in the morning, we have most likely already overlooked several riches. Above our heads are roofs that don’t leak and under them are soft pillows. But we are not to blame. Without a stark comparison, it is easy to forget our blessings when they are veiled by daily strife and routines.

Recently, I was afforded an opportunity to see my affluence reflected by the faces of children who lacked it. And yet, they smiled and laughed all the same.

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The first time I visited Tanarak Village, an impoverished suburban community of Bangkok, the day was sweltering. The night before, torrential rains fell on the woodstove of the sauna that was the outdoors. My eyes drank eagerly from the windows of the van as we passed abandoned shacks and food carts succumbing to the elements. Roofs were caving in. Parts were missing. Stray dogs slept and crept listlessly in the shade, into shadows hiding all but the floating swarthy faces of the locals.

The van stopped. Coworkers and I loaded with bags of donations made our way through the walkways leading to the meeting area. Along the way, an array of rusted aluminum panels, nails, and scents of frying meats jutted out. Children played along the train tracks. Garbage—like wild foliage—seemed to be growing and thriving off the land. It swam in the water and underneath houses like and with the fish. An orchestra of televisions and laughter from the kids reverberated through the walkway, only to be interrupted by motorcycles whizzing by the line of outsiders.

Prior to my arrival, the office had been working closely with the community (what might be harshly called the ‘slums’ is referred to here as the community) for several months. Meetings occurred where ABAC Poll members and community leaders discussed how to start to improve the quality of life: removing the fish that aren’t fish; renovations that would permit only the frying meat scents to jut out; and providing the children with additional educational outlets and areas to encourage more violins of laughter and less TV conductors.

Initially, the altruism of our purpose unsettled me more than the environment; no background knowledge of the area, the people, or our goals had been made available to me. Even more unnerving was the overwhelming sense of responsibility. But soon after, my doubts and jitters were assuaged when I saw how thirsty these children were for learning. They were my eyes and their windows were my words. In them, I would like to think they saw a way to help their people. In them, I would like to think I saw that possibility.

I have taught there twice now. Each time, we all learn a little more, not only about language, but about life. I cannot speak on behalf of the ABAC Poll staff. Perhaps I would do myself a service to ask them if they are learning anything from this experience or if only I and the children are learning new ways of life. I can say the children are realizing they can teach the teacher Thai, and I am redefining the importance of being a child. Knowledge can open the heart to the youth it has forgotten with time and tragedy.

Cultures Colide


One of my favorite restaurants is located just a few blocks from the road leading to my building. I forget its name, but I know that it roughly translate to 'piss off!' in English. As in, 'I'm eating, I'm hungry, piss off'. It has no door. An absent wall opens a tanned tiled floor and glossy wooden tables to the streets of Bangkok. The food is delicious, but nothing spectacular. The same dishes can be found at just about any other restaurant, as far as I can conclude. (Thais will tell you differently.) But I find myself inextricably addicted. A coworker had taken me there. I continued eating there because it felt comfortable. But I became inextricably addicted to 'Piss Off!'. The reason goes back to one night.
More...The atmosphere gently shook my hand, introduced itself, and cordially began to recant its subtle details. On the walls hung framed frozen gymnasts now waiting tables, helping the family. Calmly weaving underneath and between the tables, the restaurant cat kept street rats away. One night, we ate together. I ate stir-fried noodles with chicken and vegetables, and it ate a rat, freshly caught and softly bleeding. I found it soothing, considering the alternative. That night, though, a piece of green curried chicken concreted our friendship.

After finishing my meal, I ordered a Thai beer and sat back to enjoy some soccer. Liverpool played Edmonton. The ball passed back and forth. I began to think of where I was, and where I had been. I stood on my balcony in Oakland. I had a first kiss at the bottom of a staircase in Eugene. I said goodbye to so much. As I became the soccer ball, a slender man approached my table. His shirt read '1stTANbul' and his face read 'intrigued'. He carried something familiar. He sat it down in front of me without speaking a word.

It was a taco.

The crunchy corn tortilla, the spicy beef and cheddar cheese shreds, the orange grease gliding onto the plate, all of it, was familiar and longed for. For a second, I puzzled over my location as I looked at the man speechlessly.

"It is the first one. We make it for the restaurant's new menu. You try. Tell me if you like," said the slender, thin-haired man.

"Thank you so much." The taco had set my heart afire with nostalgia. The cheese and sinfully seasoned ground beef sang, reverberated and became an echo. How often does one eat a taco that will have a lifelong effect?

He came back to the table and I informed him that it tasted terrific, that I had been wanting one for the past couple of days. Thai food is fantastic, but so is variety. His grin touched the ceiling.

"Are you from Turkey," I asked while staring at his shirt.

"No, I am from Iran." Seriousness curtained his face, but his gaze never left mine. His abysmal eyes made me feel transparent, as if all my secrets were as available, as plated as that taco had been.

Without wavering, I asked him about the shirt. He had bought it while visiting Turkey three years ago. A few more pleasantries regarding my job, his education at the university, and our total time spent in Thailand later and he returned to his table. He poured himself some vodka.

My mirth could not be contained. As Liverpool moved across the field, the vodka chilled and the taco digested with the green curried chicken. In Thailand, I sat and counted the converging cultures that passed in one restaurant: an Iranian wearing a Turkish shirt gave a Mexican taco to an American watching English soccer and eating an Indian curry dish while sitting in a Thai restaurant, ending with both of us sharing a cheers with Russian vodka.

And so it was that eight different parts of the world met at one table, under one roof, between two strangers. Under such circumstances, anyone's curiosity would be addicted.

A Book is a Beginning


Everyone has a different style when it comes to travel preparations. Some prepare for a trip months in advance, studying the language and planning the exact route and itinerary that includes alternatives in the case of cancelations. Others make no plans. By throwing themselves into the mouth, they hope the swallowing will provide answers and life lessons into the self. I’d like to think I stand somewhere in the middle. I appreciate a sprint towards fear. I also like to say ‘hello’ and ‘thank you’ when needed.
More...No matter how the preparation goes, certain things are not in books. A book dazzles the reader with celebratory festivals and awe-inspiring sights. Books seduce. After the words coo to the imagination, the pictures suck on the ear lobe, whispering to the reader that the journey will be nothing short of revealingly marvelous. And for the most part, the reader will be right in their delusions. But those words were not spoken from your mouth or from the mouths of native Thai people. Those pictures are not your eyes. Nothing prepares the senses, the eager essence, for the absolute stripping of familiarity.

The book warns not to touch Thai people on the head. This is a grave offense. The top of the head represents the top, most pure part of the spirit, and is not to be touched unless one is invited to do so. Equally, it is deeply rude to show the bottoms of the feet. They represent the dark parts of the spirit. What the book does not tell you is that the Thai people in your life will gladly invite you to partake of anything they have and do, often times offering you the first to try something Thai because you haven’t already. Embedded in every one of their smiles is the pleasantness of pride, a love and respect for home.


I had forgotten such a feeling. Years ago the government, the news, those with power and those who sought it took my pride and all its purpose. Coming here, I found that pride is nothing so trivial as governmental occurrences. Secure pride remains forever in a smile. To be proud is to know love and to know you can create it. True pride is always in love, and in love.

***

Another thing the book offers as a precaution is the torrential rain. I have been here for a month now and I have seen rain in the sky like milk thrown on a windowpane. It falls with the suddenness of a heartbeat. At this point, I can predict rain quite accurately and have twice. The book mentions the streets’ inadequate drainage system causing pervasive, but temporary flooding. It doesn’t mention the flip flops. For days, I wondered why everyone wore such vulnerable footwear in such weather. Then I realized the extent of the flooding. Waves crashed up against side walks and stores. In a matter of minutes, Thailand becomes Italy. One night, I skillfully maneuvered through alleyways and high steps to get to a bar for a beer and some journal writing. I made it fairly dry. The bar had become an island, completely cut off from the street.



I sat and made efforts to remember that moment: a vendor had his food cart of fried meats were under a red and tattered umbrella lit and attached to the sidecar of his motorcycle, another island out in the sea of the street; the trinket-like waterfalls scintillatingly eroded their testament into the concrete; the cockroaches uncertainly scurried to avoid the impending murky water. It all became my muse in the shadows of drunken laughter.

It should be noted that a street flood sounds like fun. I remember playing in the country during floods when I was a child. These are not puddles for splashing. These are the same waters that floated the bag of three-day old chicken bones out into the middle of the street. This water drowned the street rats. This water came up from the sewer. It is your urine, only not sterile.

No amount of reading is enough and, honestly, looking back to when I thought I was ready, I wasn’t. Nothing prepared me for seeing the countless rats as big as kittens running in the night from my footsteps into restaurants. The words from other tongues forgot to tell mine of the heavenly pleasures of Thai spices and cuisine. I had never heard the pleasures of Thai society. No picture, book, admonishment—nothing—can sufficiently train a traveler for the world. But the true reciprocity of a traveler’s delight is realized when the traveler starts to become the picture, the book, the admonishment, attempting to coo your imagination, sucking on your lobe and whispering everything is revealingly marvelous.

Thailand is not Your Job

During the week, I wake up at 7:30 and just like I did throughout high school and college, I hit the snooze button. The first week, I did so confusedly. My alarm clock is a phone. The first sight upon sitting up is a 12-story drop onto the streets of Bangkok. I shower, shave, and get dressed all the same. The actions are all familiar, however They all feel revitalized. New. The air tastes different, yet welcoming. It's a pleasure to wake up early when your views are new.
More...Before taking the elevator ride to work, I walk to one of the several local coffee stands and order my favorite: cappuccino yen won nit noi (iced cappuccino, little sweet). It costs a dollar and is nothing like home. It is sweetened with condensed milk and made a cappuccino because of the name of the beans used. Just in case you're a respectable barista, I know there is no such thing as an iced cappuccino.

Work starts at 8:30 a.m. and it's many things. It's a cramped room previously used for storage, still marked by lingering filing boxes and stacks of forgotten documents. It's a reminder of the developing autumn of the northwest; one of my co-workers wears a jacket and must have the air conditioner at 20 degrees Celsius. I'd tell him to take off his coat if he's hot, but he understands English as well as I understand Thai. That, and it would be kind of rude. No one else in the room is complaining that it's cold. I wear a coat now.

It's a series of rooms on the 5th floor of the A building on the campus of Assumption University. I have always wondered, 'Why "Assumption?"'. The only explanation I've heard was, "Assumption? Man, catholic schools are weird." Work is a polling service paid for by government and private companies located and supported by the university. Most of all, it is the most unfamiliar part of my day: a 9-10 hour day of reading the news, lesson planning, teaching English, and editing surveys, memos, and website texts translated into English from Thai. It's learning the Thai language and culture and way of life.

Food is abundant and cheap. Everyday I eat lunch and dinner prepared for me by locals. It's cheaper to eat out than to buy groceries. To get authentic Thai food, all I have to do is walk outside the campus. Food vendors and restaurants line almost every street, and are prolific around the campus. They are ran out of shacks, houses, carts, buildings, cars, and pockets. Lunch costs a dollar. The freshly sliced fruit afterward (usually pineapple and watermelon) costs 80 cents. I tried eating somewhere different everyday, but I realized last week I have more than nine months to eat at different places, I don't need to be in any rush. Now I order food and fruit from the same places and bring it back to the office. It's nice to eat in quiet solitude once in awhile. Usually, when I eat with co-workers, the conversations are all in Thai, which I'm trying to learn, but with patience. I find myself focusing on patience more than anything. I'm learning a new way of life takes time.

After work, I go back to my room and relax, reflecting on the day and how it'll repeat the next day. I pine for the trips to the southern coast in October and December. I study, read, and watch TV just like I did when I was in the states. By saving money, I hope to explore and see more.

Weekends mean one thing without fail: badminton. It's popularity is something like going to bars for office workers in the states for the staff of the office. Usually twice a weekend I play badminton with five others and I'm getting damn good. I still lose the most, I think, but I am starting to win more. This last Saturday, we played for three hours and on Sunday for two. By the end, my shirt is drenched with sweat and I can wring it out of my headband. I've lost three pounds, one a week. Hopefully I'm still existing by the end.

I know this isn't what you expected. You expected adventure and details. You expected excitement and intrigue. Trust me, it will come. I just wanted to get a foundation established so I can build detail on top. Now that I've bought the canvas with these words, I'll paint you a picture with my continuations.